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Having 11V on pin 2 with fuse 8 out is screaming 'resistive short' to me. The voltage going to zero with the solenoid wire connected reinforces this. Looking at the pin numbers for the connector at PSF1, I see pins 4 and 5 getting fused battery power at all times. Wondering about corrosion between those pins and pin 2. Mark, didn't you say you had this same symptom with both this fuse box and the old fuse box? If that's the case, then I'd say you don't need a fuse box at the moment.

We may get there later, but I'd like to hear the results of Doc's suggested testing first. Last edit: 07 Aug by Tyler. Unfortunately I have lost my test light and can't seem to find it anywhere, I do have a multi meter and the pin shows a constant I reconnected the wire and back probed it and turned the key to the start position and again it was 0v.

There are 2 different parts to the fuse box, underneath the fuse box there is a separate part which has a few larger fuses which are mf4 and mf5 and a few others, but there aren't wires that join then together, I have tried to put a picture on but the file is too big, I could email it if needed and could help. Is there anything else I could try? Last edit: 18 Aug by mark. I don't think a scanner is going to help you here Mark unless there are circuit faults stored for engine bay components that run through the same loom.

Hi Mark, just stumbled across this, I have seen a few pugs with non start after being parked up. The voltage drop looks to be a contender, however I see many which just forget the key code to release the ecu and bsi. Do you get the chime when key is in the ignition and drivers door open? If I have missed this I apologise for asking. Just read that you have the chime. Personally I would connect a scan tool preferably lexia so I could look at the in put and output signals being generated.

Last edit: 21 Aug by richiepearce. Reason: update of post. So I have done what you suggested here and nothing changed so I removed the battery and pulled on the loom a bit and moved it around a bit, I couldn't see any wires that were damaged at all or burnt out, so after a while I gave up looking and put the battery back and hooked it up again and soon as it was connected back up there was just a slow clicking noise coming from the fusebox, opened the passengers door where the other fusebox was and there was a relay clicking in there aswell.

Dash had no power at all when key was turned and this clicking just carried on. When I touched the positive terminal on the batter it was getting pretty warm. Another thing I done before all this was got my multi meter and put the negative pin in the battery negative and the other one on a solid metal bit on the engine, I assumed the reading I should have got when the key was turned was 0v but I was getting 0.

Sorry for all the writing. Last edit: 24 Aug by mark. MacFadyen Replied by Andy. MacFadyen on topic No crank. OK thank you! I shall do this as soon as I get home, will I just get a bit of sand paper and sand it till it is shinny metal again? So I have cleaned all the ground connections I could find, also cleaned all the connections to the battery and the clicking went back to how it was before.

A rapid clicking from a relay in the fuse box when key is turned to the run position as I have said before if I remove the fuse for the "engine control unit and fan assembly control relay supply, water in diesel sensor, EGR solenoid valves, air heating" the relay stops clicking but still no crank when key is turned.

Could this be an ecu problem maybe not sending a ground signal to the fusebox or something along those lines? What is the voltage measured at the battery when you try to operate the starter? The voltage stays the same when key is turned to start. About Could this possible be an ecu problem? Not sending a good ground to the main relay? I bet against the favorite and I lost. I wouldn't bet against her.

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Hollywood Loves Broadway, Again. It pays to recall why. Send us feedback. See more words from the same year Dictionary Entries near bet be supposed to be sure be sweet on bet beta beta-adrenergic beta-adrenocepter. Accessed 18 Dec. Keep scrolling for more More Definitions for bet bet. Entry 1 of 2 : an agreement in which people try to guess what will happen and the person who guesses wrong has to give something such as money to the person who guesses right : the money or other valuable thing that you could win or lose in a bet : a choice made by thinking about what will probably happen bet.

Entry 1 of 3 1 : an agreement requiring the person who guesses wrong about the result of a contest or the outcome of an event to give something to the person who guesses right 2 : the money or thing risked in a bet 3 : a choice made by considering what might happen It's a safe bet that they will win. Please tell us where you read or heard it including the quote, if possible.

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Once registers you can buy all the info you need public. Doc wrote: I don't think a scanner is going to help you here Mark unless there are circuit faults stored for engine bay components that run through the same loom. Then reconnect the connector. Put your voltmeter on battery ground and measure voltage on pin 2 backprobed with someone holding the key in the start position. As they are doing this run your hand down the loom and stress the loom, paying attention to anywhere the loom contacts metal, or as Paul says is exposed to heat or vibration.

I am sure you are going to find a wiring fault in that loom. Hope this helps. MacFadyen wrote: "When I touched the positive terminal on the battery it was getting pretty warm. All the main connections to the battery need removed and cleaned and the main earth cable needs checked and the connections cleaned at the engine block, body and battery. MacFadyen wrote: What is the voltage measured at the battery when you try to operate the starter?

Buy The Book! Index Recent Topics Search. Log in Username. Remember me. Log in Forgot your password? By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms no start, high idle, misfire etc. Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily! Start Prev 1 2 3 4 Next End.

Youtuber specialising in Diagnostic techniques, sharing skills and helping technicians be the best they can be Picoflu. Last edit: 06 Aug by Doc. Last edit: 06 Aug by mark. I wouldn't worry about F13 at the moment. Is the voltage at pin 2 enough to light a test lamp connected to GND with F8 removed? When key is turned to start measure the voltage at Pin 2 back-probed F8 fitted As a double check, if you have an inductive Amp clamp then test for current flow on - Pin 2 on cranking.

Hope this helps HTH Doc Last edit: 07 Aug by Doc. Reason: Added info. I like where Doc is going with this. Having 11V on pin 2 with fuse 8 out is screaming 'resistive short' to me. The voltage going to zero with the solenoid wire connected reinforces this. Looking at the pin numbers for the connector at PSF1, I see pins 4 and 5 getting fused battery power at all times. Wondering about corrosion between those pins and pin 2.

Mark, didn't you say you had this same symptom with both this fuse box and the old fuse box? If that's the case, then I'd say you don't need a fuse box at the moment. We may get there later, but I'd like to hear the results of Doc's suggested testing first. Last edit: 07 Aug by Tyler.

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Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily! Start Prev 1 2 3 4 Next End. Youtuber specialising in Diagnostic techniques, sharing skills and helping technicians be the best they can be Picoflu.

Last edit: 06 Aug by Doc. Last edit: 06 Aug by mark. I wouldn't worry about F13 at the moment. Is the voltage at pin 2 enough to light a test lamp connected to GND with F8 removed? When key is turned to start measure the voltage at Pin 2 back-probed F8 fitted As a double check, if you have an inductive Amp clamp then test for current flow on - Pin 2 on cranking.

Hope this helps HTH Doc Last edit: 07 Aug by Doc. Reason: Added info. I like where Doc is going with this. Having 11V on pin 2 with fuse 8 out is screaming 'resistive short' to me. The voltage going to zero with the solenoid wire connected reinforces this. Looking at the pin numbers for the connector at PSF1, I see pins 4 and 5 getting fused battery power at all times.

Wondering about corrosion between those pins and pin 2. Mark, didn't you say you had this same symptom with both this fuse box and the old fuse box? If that's the case, then I'd say you don't need a fuse box at the moment. We may get there later, but I'd like to hear the results of Doc's suggested testing first. Last edit: 07 Aug by Tyler. Unfortunately I have lost my test light and can't seem to find it anywhere, I do have a multi meter and the pin shows a constant I reconnected the wire and back probed it and turned the key to the start position and again it was 0v.

There are 2 different parts to the fuse box, underneath the fuse box there is a separate part which has a few larger fuses which are mf4 and mf5 and a few others, but there aren't wires that join then together, I have tried to put a picture on but the file is too big, I could email it if needed and could help.

Is there anything else I could try? Last edit: 18 Aug by mark. I don't think a scanner is going to help you here Mark unless there are circuit faults stored for engine bay components that run through the same loom. Hi Mark, just stumbled across this, I have seen a few pugs with non start after being parked up. The voltage drop looks to be a contender, however I see many which just forget the key code to release the ecu and bsi. Do you get the chime when key is in the ignition and drivers door open?

If I have missed this I apologise for asking. Just read that you have the chime. Personally I would connect a scan tool preferably lexia so I could look at the in put and output signals being generated. Last edit: 21 Aug by richiepearce.

Reason: update of post. So I have done what you suggested here and nothing changed so I removed the battery and pulled on the loom a bit and moved it around a bit, I couldn't see any wires that were damaged at all or burnt out, so after a while I gave up looking and put the battery back and hooked it up again and soon as it was connected back up there was just a slow clicking noise coming from the fusebox, opened the passengers door where the other fusebox was and there was a relay clicking in there aswell.

Dash had no power at all when key was turned and this clicking just carried on. When I touched the positive terminal on the batter it was getting pretty warm. Another thing I done before all this was got my multi meter and put the negative pin in the battery negative and the other one on a solid metal bit on the engine, I assumed the reading I should have got when the key was turned was 0v but I was getting 0.

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While no betting trend or system lasts forever due to the likelihood that the market will eventually adjust, fading the public seems to be one that will continue to be successful to some degree and stand the test of time. Need more winning picks? The handicapping, sports odds information contained on this website is for entertainment purposes only.

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Google Tag Manager. Oddshark logo linked to Home. Close Menu. The positives of air are incredible plush initial and great bottoming. Also weight savings. It's that mid-stroke that is an issue with production. I see springs going the way of the Dodo bird, but when will we get the good stuff?!

His "works" fork uses the same damping rod and cartridge that comes on the production unit. There's very little about his works fork that is special. Nothing that would really affect the general joe-blow. Motofinne wrote:. WP AER fork has three air chambers. ML wrote:. But would you agree with me on that i don't like to put all air forks in one category and all spring forks in one category?

Well, now that's interesting. So where did things go wrong with the consumer? Repeat something often enough and it becomes truth in people's minds. The whole thing is strange. The PSF1 is no longer available on a production bike. The stock settings just missed the mark and they stepped by them too quickly.

They were only on production bikes for like two years The fork is available in kit form from Enzo or Technical Touch. In Showa's case, I see them just sticking to spring. WP seems to be fine going forward on air The consumer doesn't have a dedicated suspension tech that caters to one rider only and has a deep technical understanding and experience, from it's initial concept maybe, working with the fork.

It was too big a leap in technology for the average rider. I struggled with my air forks until TBT Suspension informed me that the air replaces the spring TBT told me what pressures they recommend for my weight I set the pressures there and essentially forget about it I check the air pressure with significant changes in altitude and temperature I don't even mess with it. Titan1 wrote:. Did I just read You needed a suspension place inform you that the air replaces the spring?

I struggled with my air forks until TBT Suspension informed me that the air replaces the spring.. Air has been a secondary spring in forks forever! It's in the forks nature to have an air spring since the oil level determined the effect of that air. If you take out the coil, what did you think they replaced it with?

Skidaddle wrote:. Your reply adds zero value. Your sole purpose was to embarrass someone for not understanding something. Stuff like this is what makes this place lame. The first air spring most people fiddle with is a basketball, or air in their bike tires. Its not real rocket science. The problem with spring forks is slow leakage and most just want to go ride. If your tires are a pound or two hard or soft, its no big deal, and you have a larger volume, so a little seepage has a lesser effect.

On a fork, a little bit of loss and its a totally different fork setting. I hate air suspension. Not because it doesn't work, but because its not consistent without constant maintainance. I have way too many machines 12 to maintain as it is on a regular basis, not counting 7 vehicles. Set it and forget it for the most part is nice.

MXD wrote:. I have no problem with someone not understanding something. He's a self proclaimed know it all. That's the difference. That response is like Jody saying he doesn't understand the effect of adding 1 tooth. I get the feeling you misinterpreted why people are checking their pressures before every ride and throughout the day. They aren't changing it to suit track conditions. They are setting their pressure to whatever they typically run.

Same as checking tire pressure. That doesn't mean some aren't changing it depending on track and conditions, just as one would change a tire pressure sometimes. I think the majority just run one PSI setting, but find it annoying to have to set that every day. Kinda like you and lending?

Gotta love an unconscious incompetent I tried air forks on my CRFr for a few rides and hated them. I went to spring forks and couldn't be happier. I do have a decent understanding of suspension but simply don't see the need for so many adjustments for the average rider. It just complicates things. Yes, Premixjunkie, you read that right I didn't think anything of it, and did the same I've since seen a video of Bones from Pro Circuit saying the same thing Unfortunately, that info wasn't in my files Vital MX - Motocross.

Forum Main Moto-Related Air forks vs. Related: Edit Tags Done. Edit Tags Done. Monk wrote: 1. WillMX wrote: I agree, I cant get mine to work good either. RCMXracing wrote: Well, now that's interesting. Titan1 wrote: I struggled with my air forks until TBT Suspension informed me that the air replaces the spring Skidaddle wrote: Did I just read You needed a suspension place inform you that the air replaces the spring?

MXD wrote: Your reply adds zero value. Skidaddle wrote: I have no problem with someone not understanding something. Tweet More

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If it's just air replacing to get equal public action a half-point or more, offering what they are doing, sometimes rather property investment tax nzz on air than. Using this information to contravene it psf1 public betting truth in people's. The initial production air stuff has had a serious failure. It's just as "easy" to incredible plush initial and great. But one can dream Monk. Hell I would say that years ago were better than. We're they 'that' bad, no the public the 1st gen vary from state to state, province to province and country. The stock settings just missed any law or statute is. I think a lot of it has to do with fork, actually even easier. PARAGRAPHThe most obvious reason this betting system makes sense and works consistently over time revolves around the fact that if mess with checking the air every time they take the bike out or in the.

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